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Fumay (D11)

The pain you feel today will be the strength you feel tomorrow. Chris Froome, professional cyclist and four times Tour de France winner.

Riding a bike is like an endless Sunday afternoon. Jens Voigt, professional cyclist who also said Shut up, legs!

I put these quotes together as I enjoy the dichotomy that comes with cycling. The suffering, sacrifice and pain of straining up hills, thighs screaming, lungs inflating to maximum capacity and then the release that comes when you think you can't go on anymore. Then, the sheer joy of pedalling in a big gear down a 2 percent gradient pretending it's flat and how good you look. 

As for today it is forecast 67km with 850m of climbing and most of that is at the start. Cycling is of course stupid. Someone shared this route thinking it good to do. Early on there is a short ramp of 50 metres at 15%, probably more in places as my front wheel popped up off the tarmac a number of times and I am reasonably good at balancing my weight on gradients. Then after some respite you get a long 10% drag with a 12% climax; I walked the last 50 metres and am not ashamed to say so.
The Ardennes is known for its hills and forests so there is always forestry work going on. 
Yesterday evening was laundry night and bath night combined. With no bubble bath and the washing machine located in the bathroom it was a natural move to throw a laundry tab into the bath. The result is co-ordinated fragrance for rider and his kit; I might just be on to something. 

Oh, and the sun is shining. 

At one point today the route took me off road and it quickly became apparent that some serious narrow, steep, tree root infested trail lay ahead so it was an easy decision to head back to the road and pickup the route further on. A café stop in Monthermé yielded a well earned beer though the cheese plate came as a bowl of diced 'plastic' cheese.

The temperature rose to 24 degrees Celsius and it was something of a relief to close the Gîte door and slump in the shade exhausted; 71km and 1,000 metres of ascent does that to me.

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Concluding Notes

I always squeeze as much out of a tour as possible and ultimately that leaves me feeling a bit frazzled. I usually have options and seldom do more than I want. The main pleasure for me is the cycling and I try to maximise distance covered just for the fun of it. 40 miles a day has worked well on a generally flat route with hills and shorter days in the middle week and no tent or camping.  This is a photo I took of a large billboard advertising a trade electricals outlet; not sure of the message here but I encountered it at the end of a tiring day. The Ardennes along the river Meuse is a flexible location as road, rail and cycle paths run up and down the valley and then you have interesting rides with some hills but nothing extreme I think an altitude of 450m was as high as I got and the Ardennes is rolling forested hills rather than mountains and certainly nothing above 700m. Charleville-Meziere is a good base for day rides and for day trips on the train to places like...

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Ypres

War must be, while we defend our lives against a destroyer who would devour all; but I do not love the bright sword for its sharpness, nor the arrow for its swiftness, nor the warrior for his glory. I love only that which they defend. Faramir, a reluctant warrior in Part 2 of Lord of the Rings by J. R. R. Tolkien.  It's hard not to look back to World War I when approaching Ypres and this from Tolkien felt appropriate.  I was staying at a B&B last night which means a good breakfast this morning. There was a generous breakfast table laid out for me and, only slightly worryingly, two lit candles and fresh roses from the garden. The scene reminded me of the film Misery which stars Kathy Bates who does everything to stop her guest (played by James Caan) from leaving. I shouldn't have worried as part of the way through my meal my host announced that she had got my bike from the garage so I was 'free to leave'; and this was said with no trace of malicious intent. Lots of ...