Today I will reach Charleville-Mézière the administrative centre of the Ardennes department in France and although it has only been five days of actual cycling it is starting to feel like an achievement to get there.
Three tiers; the river, the railway embankment and the viaduct.
We were talking about Robert Stephenson - of Rocket fame - yesterday and today France reminds us that it too was working on steam powered locomotives courtesy of Émile Salmson.
Full blue skies today and a spectacular start along the EuroVelo 3 to Hirson where I take my leave of the pilgrims and cut across to Charleville-Meziere.
If we note the address we can imagine it to be a modest back street operation which it probably was and reminds me that Rayleigh Cycles started as a very small back street operation as the company which went on to become a world leader at its peak was named for the street of the premises, Raleigh Street. It is perhaps fortunate that they didn't start out in Broccoli Bottom, Manton in Rutland (a place I know because I have stayed there) or No Name Street in Sandwich which I've cycled down.
This part of France has a number of fortified churches which protected the local population and some have enlarged and fortified bell towers like a castle's keep.
Borders, feudalism and rebellion were the threats.
A photo born out of the need to stop, rest and stretch.
The bike lock was a nice touch I thought.
With 30km still to go it felt like I'd cycled most of the day already. The Ardennes sign kept me going as did the gradients as it is a gentle undulating uphill for the first half of today and then a gentle downhill. It is subtle so as a cyclist you believe it is generally flat and wonder (uphill) why your legs aren't working and (downhill) why you've suddenly been awarded superpowers.
My arrival when it finally comes feels bigger than the 5 days and 250 miles from Dieppe.