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Introduction

I am getting soft and have no excuses. Yes, I turned 60, and yes I completed my first marathon a week before this tour started but I am heading out to the Ardennes on my bike sans tent, sans cooking equipment, and sans sleeping bag. My lazy reasoning for this laziness is that without camping equipment I can cover longer distances each day and using hotels means there is somewhere to sit in comfort. There is much to comend camping but the single standout drawback is somewhere to sit while you enjoy a glass of wine looking out over an aquamarine sea watching the sun set. It may sound odd but a chair is on the essentials list of many cycle tourers. 

There are different cycle touring modes such as credit card where you only take what you would for a day ride (plus toothbrush) and use your credit card for everything else, comfort touring where you are reasonably self-sufficient with a change of clothes for evening, camp touring involves tent and cooking equipment, then comes expedition touring where you might be taking solar panels, spare tyres and whatever else is required to take you across a continent. 

This tour starts awkwardly as it involves taking a train to Lewes so I can cycle to Newhaven, an overnight stay in Newhaven to catch a 9:30am ferry to Dieppe and an overnight in the outskirts of Dieppe. The ferry timings out of Newhaven and the loss of an hour due to time zones don't make for the most convenient journey to France for a cyclist and alternatives would have been to do the tour in reverse or get one of the frequent Dover ferries to Calais then drop down the coast towards Dieppe before picking up my intended route to Charleville-Meziere on the edge of the Ardennes. The Dieppe to Charleville-Meziere route has 184km of cycleway on a 372km S-shaped route. Having cycled to the edge of the Ardennes I spend 3 nights in the town of Charleville-Meziere before a short hop to the village of Fumay in the Ardennes where I am based for 7 nights.

It is then 4 days cycling through Wallonia (southern Belgium) via Ypres to get the Dunkirk to Dover ferry home for a more efficient return to UK soil. In keeping with tradition I have 2 nights in Dunkirk so I have a contingency day. The inefficient travel out will provide a bit more recovery time after my marathon, and as I am based in an affordable gite in Fumay for a week leaving the tent behind does make sense, honest. If the Ardennes works out as a destination I can do the Calais to Charleville-Meziere route another time.

The Ardennes I am exploring is the hilly, wooded geographic area that covers parts of France, Belgium, Luxembourg and Germany. I will be based in France and very close to border with Belgium and a little too far west to do a day trip to Luxembourg. I am staying a few nights in the Ardennes department's prefecture (Charleville-Meziere) before going to Fumay which lies in a loop of the Meuse river. This places me in the slightly gentler western edge of the Ardennes though my 40-mile day rides will each typically involve close to 1,000m of ascent. 

Like all of my trips this is a pre-booked affair with ferry, accommodation and cycle routes mapped out and booked months in advance; I just get itchy feet. Then with a marathon to focus on I did, as is usual for me, sort of forget I would be cycling and only just managed to attend to the finer details such as new chain and cassette for the bike before setting off.

Like many I find that running and cycling create a positive cycle, or virtuous circle as the expression goes. This does assume you enjoy these activities and the more you do the more you want to do; longer, faster, trails, hills. It makes you feel good and makes you want to make better choices especially where diet is concerned. You get to the demands of marathon training and your body tells you what to eat and it becomes all about nutrition. 

This isn't a Channel to the Mediterranean style epic journey though at 800 miles it will be epic for me, just not in the manner of a grand tour.

Luckily I have been riding through the winter and as the saying goes, "winter miles give way to summer smiles". I am set on making the most of those winter miles and use that conditioning on the bike to good effect.

Index

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Concluding Notes

I always squeeze as much out of a tour as possible and ultimately that leaves me feeling a bit frazzled. I usually have options and seldom do more than I want. The main pleasure for me is the cycling and I try to maximise distance covered just for the fun of it. 40 miles a day has worked well on a generally flat route with hills and shorter days in the middle week and no tent or camping.  This is a photo I took of a large billboard advertising a trade electricals outlet; not sure of the message here but I encountered it at the end of a tiring day. The Ardennes along the river Meuse is a flexible location as road, rail and cycle paths run up and down the valley and then you have interesting rides with some hills but nothing extreme I think an altitude of 450m was as high as I got and the Ardennes is rolling forested hills rather than mountains and certainly nothing above 700m. Charleville-Meziere is a good base for day rides and for day trips on the train to places like...

Index

Posting daily updates is good though I do tend to go back and edit putting everything out of sequence so if you want to read sequentially this Index may help as might  the  Introduction  which sets the scene.  Index Introduction   Day 1 - Dieppe   Day 2 - FerriĆ©res-en-Bray Day 3 - Clermont   Day 4 - Chauny   Day 5 - Sorbais   Day 6 - Charleville-Meziere (arrival) Day 7 - Charleville-Meziere Day 8 - Charleville-Meziere Day 9 - Fumay (arrival) Day 10 - Fumay Day 11 - Fumay Day 12 - Fumay Day 13 - Fumay   Day 14 - Fumay Day 15 - Fumay Day 16 - Lobbes Day 17 - Tournai Day 18 - Ypres Day 19 - Dunkirk   Day 20 - Dunkirk   Concluding Notes Dunkirk Little Ships Bonus A monumental start on the ride to London Bridge. My bike looks so tiny.

Ypres

War must be, while we defend our lives against a destroyer who would devour all; but I do not love the bright sword for its sharpness, nor the arrow for its swiftness, nor the warrior for his glory. I love only that which they defend. Faramir, a reluctant warrior in Part 2 of Lord of the Rings by J. R. R. Tolkien.  It's hard not to look back to World War I when approaching Ypres and this from Tolkien felt appropriate.  I was staying at a B&B last night which means a good breakfast this morning. There was a generous breakfast table laid out for me and, only slightly worryingly, two lit candles and fresh roses from the garden. The scene reminded me of the film Misery which stars Kathy Bates who does everything to stop her guest (played by James Caan) from leaving. I shouldn't have worried as part of the way through my meal my host announced that she had got my bike from the garage so I was 'free to leave'; and this was said with no trace of malicious intent. Lots of ...