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Introduction

I am getting soft and have no excuses. Yes, I turned 60, and yes I completed my first marathon a week before this tour started but I am heading out to the Ardennes on my bike sans tent, sans cooking equipment, and sans sleeping bag. My lazy reasoning for this laziness is that without camping equipment I can cover longer distances each day and using hotels means there is somewhere to sit in comfort. There is much to comend camping but the single standout drawback is somewhere to sit while you enjoy a glass of wine looking out over an aquamarine sea watching the sun set. It may sound odd but a chair is on the essentials list of many cycle tourers. 

There are different cycle touring modes such as credit card where you only take what you would for a day ride (plus toothbrush) and use your credit card for everything else, comfort touring where you are reasonably self-sufficient with a change of clothes for evening, camp touring involves tent and cooking equipment, then comes expedition touring where you might be taking solar panels, spare tyres and whatever else is required to take you across a continent. 

This tour starts awkwardly as it involves taking a train to Lewes so I can cycle to Newhaven, an overnight stay in Newhaven to catch a 9:30am ferry to Dieppe and an overnight in the outskirts of Dieppe. The ferry timings out of Newhaven and the loss of an hour due to time zones don't make for the most convenient journey to France for a cyclist and alternatives would have been to do the tour in reverse or get one of the frequent Dover ferries to Calais then drop down the coast towards Dieppe before picking up my intended route to Charleville-Meziere on the edge of the Ardennes. The Dieppe to Charleville-Meziere route has 184km of cycleway on a 372km S-shaped route. Having cycled to the edge of the Ardennes I spend 3 nights in the town of Charleville-Meziere before a short hop to the village of Fumay in the Ardennes where I am based for 7 nights.

It is then 4 days cycling through Wallonia (southern Belgium) via Ypres to get the Dunkirk to Dover ferry home for a more efficient return to UK soil. In keeping with tradition I have 2 nights in Dunkirk so I have a contingency day. The inefficient travel out will provide a bit more recovery time after my marathon, and as I am based in an affordable gite in Fumay for a week leaving the tent behind does make sense, honest. If the Ardennes works out as a destination I can do the Calais to Charleville-Meziere route another time.

The Ardennes I am exploring is the hilly, wooded geographic area that covers parts of France, Belgium, Luxembourg and Germany. I will be based in France and very close to border with Belgium and a little too far west to do a day trip to Luxembourg. I am staying a few nights in the Ardennes department's prefecture (Charleville-Meziere) before going to Fumay which lies in a loop of the Meuse river. This places me in the slightly gentler western edge of the Ardennes though my 40-mile day rides will each typically involve close to 1,000m of ascent. 

Like all of my trips this is a pre-booked affair with ferry, accommodation and cycle routes mapped out and booked months in advance; I just get itchy feet. Then with a marathon to focus on I did, as is usual for me, sort of forget I would be cycling and only just managed to attend to the finer details such as new chain and cassette for the bike before setting off.

Like many I find that running and cycling create a positive cycle, or virtuous circle as the expression goes. This does assume you enjoy these activities and the more you do the more you want to do; longer, faster, trails, hills. It makes you feel good and makes you want to make better choices especially where diet is concerned. You get to the demands of marathon training and your body tells you what to eat and it becomes all about nutrition. 

This isn't a Channel to the Mediterranean style epic journey though at 800 miles it will be epic for me, just not in the manner of a grand tour.

Luckily I have been riding through the winter and as the saying goes, "winter miles give way to summer smiles". I am set on making the most of those winter miles and use that conditioning on the bike to good effect.

Index

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Index

Posting daily updates is good though I do tend to go back and edit putting everything out of sequence so if you want to read sequentially this Index may help as might  the  Introduction  which sets the scene.  Index Introduction   Day 1 - Dieppe   Day 2 - FerriĆ©res-en-Bray Day 3 - Clermont   Day 4 - Chauny   Day 5 - Sorbais   Day 6 - Charleville-Meziere (arrival) Day 7 - Charleville-Meziere Day 8 - Charleville-Meziere Day 9 - Fumay (arrival) Day 10 - Fumay Day 11 - Fumay Day 12 - Fumay Day 13 - Fumay   Day 14 - Fumay Day 15 - Fumay Day 16 - Lobbes Day 17 - Tournai Day 18 - Ypres Day 19 - Dunkirk   Day 20 - Dunkirk   Concluding Notes Dunkirk Little Ships Bonus A monumental start on the ride to London Bridge. My bike looks so tiny.

Dieppe

Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go.  T.S. Eliot Dieppe is an excellent arrival point for a cyclist because you roll off the ferry and you are immediately in a beautiful port town. Docking at 14:45 means you miss lunch though that just forces a ride around town in search of pain . Saint Malo in Brittany is another example of a great arrival whereas the Dunkirk ferry terminal is somewhat remote and the feeling can be more of landing on a hostile shore; a feeling probably fuelled by the rich diet of WW2 films we get in the UK. Image generated by ChatGPT I say in search of pain and hopefully the italics has alerted you to the fact that I am referring to French bread. The un-italised version I don't need to go in search of because last Sunday I ran my first marathon and spent the days after wondering if I'd ever be able to walk without pain let alone ride a bicycle. I don't suffer from muscle soreness after exercise and it came as a ...

Fumay (D15)

did I not explain to you once before that no one is ever told what would have happened? Aslan in response to a question from Lucy about what could have been had things been done differently. The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe by C. S. Lewis.  My tours normally run from a beginning to an end with perhaps some rest days and I tend to think that, in part, it is the journey and the journey's end that keeps me motivated to move forward. Today is my last full day in Fumay where I will have stayed a full seven nights doing day rides and I haven't felt the need to be moving on and I haven't contemplated what would have happened if I'd arranged my traditional tour. In fact I have enjoyed the relative luxury of having access to a kitchen, beautiful surroundings in which to cycle and building some small degree of familiarity in the area. Today, I am heading out to do a repeat of yesterday's ride but hopefully without the dreaded bonk. With that in mind I will try not to re...