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Fumay (arrival)

Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving. Albert Einstein 

In busy Charleville-Mézière I encountered a sign and had to look up it's full meaning. Yes, you can run through a red light in the directions given but it's still your responsibility to give way to cars and pedestrians who have the green light. Users of the Cycle Superhighways in London use this approach though without the licence to do so. The French sign and associated rules came about around 2012 as a measure to facilitate the free flow of cycles and also as a safety measure to clear cycles out if the way of large vehicles.
I've cycled in France quite alot so didn't think I needed to remind myself of the rules of the road. Cycling through a village which was one straight main road with side roads, a classic ribbon development, there were intermittent stop signs by each side road indicating that drivers can pull out of side roads with priority and its the driver on the main road that needs to give way. It isn't always this way and this variable rule is the second most important rule to be aware of. The first rule, drive on the right-hand side of the road, is a constant. 

The German professional cyclist Jens Voigt had a positive spin on cycling when he said Riding a bike is like an endless Sunday afternoon. It's a Monday but today is definitely a Jens Voigt Sunday afternoon style ride down the river Meuse which runs northwards from Langres to Rotterdam. 

I am following the Trans-Ardennes route which is a segment of the longer EuroVelo 19 or Meuse Cycle Route. Further north in Belgium it gets branded as one of their national cycle routes.
I stop at Monthermé for a coffe and it has a very resort feel to it.

There is 224m of dark tunnel where you have to plunge yourself into darkness before a segment of lightning comes on, then again plunge into the unknown to trigger the lights for the next stretch.
I fancied inflating tyres with a pump that had a pressure gauge but never found it.
Though I did find an old house. 
The Meuse is controlled with locks and wiers to make it navigable. 

My accommodation for the week is called le haut clocher, the high bell tower. It is on Church Square directly opposite the church.

Fumay itself is neither resort nor run down and will be a good base.
I have time to explore the village and I do find a proper pump with pressure gauge. These storage facilities are locked at night and have charge points for e-bikes.
Another view of Fumay.

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Index

Posting daily updates is good though I do tend to go back and edit putting everything out of sequence so if you want to read sequentially this Index may help as might  the  Introduction  which sets the scene.  Index Introduction   Day 1 - Dieppe   Day 2 - Ferriéres-en-Bray Day 3 - Clermont   Day 4 - Chauny   Day 5 - Sorbais   Day 6 - Charleville-Meziere (arrival) Day 7 - Charleville-Meziere Day 8 - Charleville-Meziere Day 9 - Fumay (arrival) Day 10 - Fumay Day 11 - Fumay Day 12 - Fumay Day 13 - Fumay   Day 14 - Fumay Day 15 - Fumay Day 16 - Lobbes Day 17 - Tournai Day 18 - Ypres Day 19 - Dunkirk   Day 20 - Dunkirk   Concluding Notes Dunkirk Little Ships Bonus A monumental start on the ride to London Bridge. My bike looks so tiny.

Dieppe

Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go.  T.S. Eliot Dieppe is an excellent arrival point for a cyclist because you roll off the ferry and you are immediately in a beautiful port town. Docking at 14:45 means you miss lunch though that just forces a ride around town in search of pain . Saint Malo in Brittany is another example of a great arrival whereas the Dunkirk ferry terminal is somewhat remote and the feeling can be more of landing on a hostile shore; a feeling probably fuelled by the rich diet of WW2 films we get in the UK. Image generated by ChatGPT I say in search of pain and hopefully the italics has alerted you to the fact that I am referring to French bread. The un-italised version I don't need to go in search of because last Sunday I ran my first marathon and spent the days after wondering if I'd ever be able to walk without pain let alone ride a bicycle. I don't suffer from muscle soreness after exercise and it came as a ...

Fumay (D15)

did I not explain to you once before that no one is ever told what would have happened? Aslan in response to a question from Lucy about what could have been had things been done differently. The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe by C. S. Lewis.  My tours normally run from a beginning to an end with perhaps some rest days and I tend to think that, in part, it is the journey and the journey's end that keeps me motivated to move forward. Today is my last full day in Fumay where I will have stayed a full seven nights doing day rides and I haven't felt the need to be moving on and I haven't contemplated what would have happened if I'd arranged my traditional tour. In fact I have enjoyed the relative luxury of having access to a kitchen, beautiful surroundings in which to cycle and building some small degree of familiarity in the area. Today, I am heading out to do a repeat of yesterday's ride but hopefully without the dreaded bonk. With that in mind I will try not to re...